Aardvark McLeod

Sebastian Hope recently had a fantastic adventure exploring the trout fishing that Chile has to offer. He wrote a superb article recently published in the Financial Times - How to spend it magazine. Please take a look..

A nice little compilation of GT fishing on the fly on Farquhar:

After a truly memorable first week of the season on Farquhar, we were super keen to get our second group of clients into some big fish. The group consisted of guys from Canada, Europe and South Africa, and being truly avid fly fishermen they were ready to catch whatever we put in front of them. We were also fortunate to have world renowned fishing photographer and friend Henry Gilbey with us to showcase the impressive we were bound to catch. Starting the week on a new moon spring tide meant one thing for sure, there was going to be loads of water movement which would lead to short but explosive sessions on the flats, ideal for the highly prized GTs and Triggers which Farquhar has become synonymous with. To say we were ready to go was putting it mildly!

The GT account was opened by Bruce Schenk who landed a 115cm GT off the bat…. not bad for his first effort at throwing a fly, nice work Bruce. A total of 7 GTs where landed on the first day along with a bag of other different species. We were off to great start!

But how would the rest of the week develop? The GT’s provided with opportunities on a daily basis and although a few fish managed reclaim their freedom prematurely, the guys experienced some quality fishing. Billy Boucher landed our second fish which topped the meter mark with a fine specimen of 106cm. Bruce was again in the action a few days into the week when he landed his second fish over the 100cm mark.

Then to show it’s diversity, Farquhar offered some truly memorable Bonefishing with some great single and double tailing fish being encountered in the surf. Although the Triggers were strangely erratic and reluctant to eat the fly, we did manage to get one or two. As for the Bumpies, John Gregory & John Munro managed to land some great specimen, with John’s in particular being an enormous fish of 70 lbs. To say we were all chuffed is a complete understatement!

It was absolutely fantastic to be back on Farquhar for the start of our 2011/2012 season. Expectations were high to say the least after the fantastic fishing we experienced last season. Our guests for this week were Craig Anderson and the gang, most of whom have fished with us on numerous occasions…we were sure to have a super week! 

No sooner had we arrived on Farquhar and run through the guys tackle, they decided to take a stroll around North Island with rods in arm whilst we prepared the tender boats for the week ahead. Even though the arrival day is not classified as guided fishing day, Craig Jensen promptly landed a 97cm GT, with the rest of the guys landing a good mix of species including nice sized Bluefin Trevally and some solid Bones. If this was how things were going to start, we were in for a real treat.

First full day on the flats and Grant Dryden landed an impressive GT of 114cm, with another 5 coming to hand amongst the group before the days end….not bad for a neap tide you might say. What happened on the second day however cannot be described accurately enough with words. One of the groups had chosen to fish around Goulette and what they witnessed will be forever etched into Farquhar folklore. After seeing some enormous explosions just off the flats and some initial guessing, the group was soon to realise that it was in fact enormous GT’s launching themselves out of the water trying to bring down the low flying Noddy Terns which were returning to their island after feeding out at sea. On more than one occasion the guests witnessed birds going down….hard to believe but believe me it happened. That day 5 good sized fish were landed, with Mark Jensen pinning another trophy of 109cm. The mayhem continued for the next 2 days with 7 more GTs being landed and many more lost. Farquhar and Goulette in particular were on fire!

 
Not to be outdone, Dipose consistently produced the goods and handed Craig Jensen a gorgeous 120cm GT, but the fish of the week went to Mark Jensen who muscled in a 134cm monster! To say we were being treated to a GT feast is the understatement of the lifetime! On the species front, the Triggerfish were unusually scarce and skittish, but with the tidal levels and our focus on the GT’s that is to be expected. We did however manage to land two really good sized Bumpies during the week, with Craig landing a fish of 45lbs and Grant one of about 20lbs. 
What a way to start the season! Forty one GT’s, seven of which broke the meter mark and many more in the 90 cm range. Nothing gets us more excited than getting guys hooked into quality fish, and if the season continues on the way it has started, our guests are in for one hell of a season. Brad Hyman

After the past three magical seasons on this remarkable Indian Ocean Atoll, there is no doubt in our minds that St Brandon’s offers some of the finest shallow water fishing for large bonefish found anywhere on the planet. With numerous fish over the 10 pound mark being landed each season, we tend to forget to mention the other exciting species on offer when wading these productive flats. Hopefully this small film will give you a flavour of what you might expect….. 

Steelhead are a fish that get under your skin. There is no other migratory fish that fights like a fresh steelhead and can leave you so feeling utterly out of control. It is this experience that keeps me coming back to the Skeena river system in British Columbia, the last true bastion of wild steelhead. The other part of steelheading is that sometimes the weather can be terrible and rivers blow out very quickly. For this reason I fish with Nicholas Dean Lodge just outside of Terrace. No other operation has such a wide net of rivers and areas to fish. The reason I point this out as when my group arrived this week the Kalum had burst its banks, the Skeena was a chocolate torrent and this area has just experienced some of the heaviest rain in 50 years. This is a calculated risk when steelheading, and despite the atrocious conditions Dustin Kovacvich and his team found us places to fish and we have caught some fish!

The first day I and the Norwegians Arnt Henning Brunborg and Geir Espeland fished the stunning Kasiks River for Coho salmon. Coho are sometimes given a hard time, but these silver salmon can be every bit as hard fighting and challenging as steelhead, although normally found in greater numbers. Unlike Alaska the Coho in the Skeena watershed are large, often exceeding 20 lbs and some have been caught up to 30 lbs. We had a fantastic afternoon landing 10 – 12 fish up to 12 lbs, which considering the conditions elsewhere were remarkable. James Paterson and I ventured back there the following day with Dustin and had a similar experience. However this time we took the jet boat as far up as possible and the upper stretches are stunning. I have always thought this river valley looks like something out of the Lord of the Rings, although this is the first year I have fished it in blazing sunshine.

James and Geoff Haslam had a successful drift down the lower Copper which was just coming into shape and caught a couple of nice steelhead apiece. The Norwegians went and fished a stunning little stream that contains steelhead, and enjoyed a day hiking along its course, casting dry flies at fish in its crystal clear waters. I fished there last year and was amazed that fish make it up the falls as it looks more akin to a trout stream and contains fish in excess of 10 lbs. There is nothing like casting dry flies to these aggressive fish, and if you hit it right the fights are spectacular as these powerful fish cartwheel about the pool.

Day three saw Geoff and I heading for Wilsons Creek. I have always wanted to go and catch truly wild rainbows, and Wilsons Creek is stuffed with rainbow and bull trout that feed on the salmon eggs of the spawning sockeye. Having seen this phenomenon so many times in magazines and films it is extraordinary to see large numbers of red salmon on the redds in the rivers. We hiked our way up the creek taking fish as we went on 4 and 5 weights. The trout took egg patterns very aggressively and their markings were simply beautiful. I think we ended up with over 30 fish between us, and just another different facet to the fishery for anyone that likes a bit of a change.

By this time in the week the rivers were slowly coming back into shape, although the Kalum was still very high and dirty and pretty unfishable. The following day Rob Wigand and I took the plunge and hiked into the Upper Copper with Geoff Langley as our guide. Half way out the logging track we had a spectacular blow out on the trail, but luckily after a little while of scratching our heads the service truck happened along. Mike the mechanic pulled out his pneumatic wrench and had the wheel changed in 5 minutes. How lucky was that!

A trek of 45 minutes through the dense forest had us on the banks of one of my favourite pools, the same one I had such success on dry fly last year. I was filled with anticipation as Rob and I began to swing some flies down the pool. Rob had a few plucks at his fly and saw a couple, but I failed to even touch a fish. Granted the water was still a little high and cloudy, but I really thought we would hit a fish any second. Unfortunately it was not to be, and as time ticked on we had start the long trek back up to the truck. Ah well, you win some and you lose some, and that is fishing.

That night at dinner Dustin announced that the Skeena was dropping out nicely and we would have a crack at the main river the following morning. I was filled with mixed emotions as although I love fishing the main Skeena I have never had any luck personally. All the guys I have fished with have always told me that the Steelhead on the Skeena are larger and more aggressive than any other, and normally chromes silver as they head up from the sea.

James and I set out with Sky Richard from the boat launch at the bottom of the Kalum and after a jet boat run of about 20 minutes landed on the left bank of the Skeena above Terrace. Sky helped James put his gear together and led him a little way up the bank to a small riffle where he threw out some line and made a short cast about 15 feet off the bank. As he was handing the rod back a steelhead smashed the fly and James was into a good fish that tore off across the current. After a good battle and some good jumps he landed a 15 lb bar of silver with a touch of pink along its lateral line. A good start to the day! Sky explained to us that when fishing for migrating fish in the main river a totally different approach is needed.

Normally in our rivers (and the tributaries to the Skeena) we are fishing for holding fish in pools, so cast and mend, making out way down the pool to cover the fish. With hard running migrating fish such as the main Skeena the best approach is to find a riffle or draw close to the bank and stay in position covering the water as the fish push past. Not cricket you say? Boring perhaps? Actually, no, not when you are getting nipped and tweaked and hooking up. When standing in the river up to your ankles it is actually possible to see the fish as they run up the shallows, and when I mean shallows I mean three feet from the bank! I had one large steelhead of about 15 lbs that literally swam over my boots! It is also the variety: Chums, Sockeye, steelhead, pinks and even the odd Chinook so you never really know what you are going to hook. Fishing close in like this requires different tactics and actually the best choice is a single handed rod or small two hander with a section of lead core onto a floating line. I was using the new Hardy Zenith 12’6” 7# which is a stunning little rod, very light with stacks of power. With a slight angled upstream cast it is possible to almost nymph and as the gear is lighter it is possible to feel every pluck and take. As soon as you feel something, set the hook.

I moved up the river about 200 yards from James to a lovely draw and did as Sky directed. As the fly drew to the shallows I felt a pluck and thought I had hooked a rock. As I lifted into the “Rock” it thrashed and stormed out of the shallows. After a brief tussle the fish threw the hook, but certainly woke me up! Sky came up to see how I was doing a little later, and as we chatted I dropped the fly above me and almost immediately the line streaked upstream and I struck… into something that resembled a cinder block…. which charged away and immediately became airborne to the tune of four feet above the water. It was a large steelhead; we estimated over 20 lbs that was doing its best impression of a tarpon. The line tore threw the rings and there was nothing I could do but hold on and pray. A hundred yards out into the main river it jumped again, cart wheeling upside down, and as it torpedoed through the water came out one more time…. and the line went slack as it spat the hook. I was left in a slight state of shock, and buzzing to say the least. I had heard so many stories of “hot” steelhead on the Skeena and now I had been destroyed by one. I still could not get over that it took the fly no more than five feet from the bank!

Having experienced this and the closeness to the bank a little later I opted to switch to a single handed Hardy Proaxis 8# with a pink shrimpy type fly tied with angel hair. Casting just above me the fly dead drifted through the slot and stopped. I struck and immediately a fish came straight out of the water. A short battle on the 8 weight later and I had at last actually landed a fish of approximately 10 lbs, again fresh as a daisy. I released it and dropped the fly back in the water to start stripping line off again. The line went tight immediately and as I pulled the fish just came up and onto the bank like a sack of potatoes. I quickly realised it was the same fish! Talk about aggressive.. I released it for the second time and watched it swim away. James was enjoying similar success and the by the end of the day we had hooked eight steelhead and landed four along with some assorted pacific salmon species. Dinner that night was a hubbub of excitement as tales were told. Nearly everyone had got into fish and we reminisced over a good food and a couple of beers.

The last day dawned and the river just looked in even better condition. Again James and I headed to the same spot with Sky, and this time Geoff and Rob joined us with Greg. Over the 500 yard bank there was more than enough room with a number of great riffles that we could cover. I started below everyone else using the Hardy Zenith 12’6” 7# two hander and have to admit I was feeling pretty tired by then. After about 20 minutes of casting the fly drifted into the edge along the bank and I felt it stop. Again, thinking I had just clipped a rock and lifted to the rod. I was amazed when suddenly everything went tight and a really angry steelhead charged through the shallow water, nearly its whole back out of the water. It made a bee line for the boats, found the nearest anchor cable and wrapped the sink tip around it, jumping against the leader until the fly parted. Well, that got the adrenaline going!

I walked up the bank past Geoff and Rob and headed up towards where James and Sky were fishing. A little above them was a lovely glide heading down into a V which looked particularly inviting. I switched to the single hander again and again began to fish methodically for the fish moving up past my feet. As the leadcore tip attained depth and flashed around in a sharp swing I would feel twitches and bumps on the fly. After a little while I felt a distinctive pluck. I cast again with same length of line (still no more than 15 feet from my feet) and again felt the pluck. One more cast, and as the fly came around the same spot the line tweaked in my hand and I slammed the rod up and to the right in a vicious strike. The line was wrenched from my hand as a large chrome bullet broached the surface almost directly opposite me before charging off down stream. It was not happy. As line sped off the reel I began to move down stream, applying pressure on the Hardy Proaxis 8# I started to pump and wind, slowly retrieving line while Sky fetched the net. Slowly I gained line, but almost immediately lost it again as the fish tore off, stripping me down to the backing in a flash.  Finally the pressure began to have its toll and Sky expertly netted it, a stunning 14 lber. It never ceases to amaze me how powerful these fish are, and how beautiful they are.

In the distance I could see Geoff and Rob hooking up and fish leaping across the river, and just below me James had caught three nice Steelhead. He hooked one monster, which thrashed briefly before spitting the hook back at him in a pile of slack. There was a quiet moment in which he bent over and hugged his knees which Sky and I both felt. The day continued with constant action, and while James and I sat down and had a bite to eat on a nearby log we let Sky loose on the river. Nicked named “The fish Finder” Sky would normally hook anything that was passing. While we sat and watched he latched into a really big fish that did nothing but move slowly upstream. He managed to persuade it head down stream again, and after a monumental battle I netted it for him. It was a chrome torpedo of 42” which we estimated at just over 20 lbs. I felt slightly in awe of such a stunning steelhead.

The day finished on a high note as I hooked and landed one on the last cast of 8lbs. What a day! My fear of the main Skeena has gone, and I now only revere that river as to the shear number of fish and species running it. That evening Geir showed us some pics of their day with Dustin, and he had landed a fish of over 20 lbs as well. He and Arnt Henning had hooked 17 fish and only landed four as they had given them some serious grief.

Although the week started slowly with tough water conditions there was still plenty of interesting fishing to do which is not the case at many other operations. If you are blown out on one river system there is nothing to do but sit in the lodge and play poker. The rivers rallied significantly for some fantastic steelheading in the later part of the week and everyone left on a high note, and looking forward to returning. When you experience fishing and guiding of this quality it can only make one long to return. Alf and Simone took fantastic care of us at Yellow Cedar Lodge with excellent food through out the week, and many thanks to Dustin, Chad, Sky, Jeff and Greg for their hard work on the river. Aardvark McLeod will be hosting an August week next year to combine some more salmon species, so anyone who would like to experience this phenomenal fishery please contact us.

The Adaldalur valley has enchanted me since I first visited it in 2002 to fish the Nes beats for salmon. At that time I heard tales of the incredible trout fishing found on the upper stretches above the falls that wound their way down from Lake Myvatn. At this point only those in the know and the Icelandics themselves fished these waters, and when I finally did come up to fish I was astounded by the size and ferocity of these wild brown trout. 
Once again I have returned to tangle with these monsters as my buddy and fellow trout bum Will Proger and I headed north on the flight to Akureyri to try our luck. There are two lodges on the Upper Adaldal, Raudholar and Hof, and this year we stayed in the lower lodge at Raudholar to fish the Laxardal beats. There are 10 rods fishing this section with approximately 12 km of double banked fishing. Unlike the braided sections of the Myvatnssveit beats that flow out of the lake the river here is wide and interspersed with islands. On first view it can certainly appear intimidating to the chalkstream angler. However the fish are normally tucked in against the bank in the numerous islets and bays along its course, and the fish down on Laxardal generally have a much higher average weight. Although the river looks deep and menacing this is a product of the black larval sand on the bed punctuated with rocks making the perfect lies. It is easily waded the whole way across to thigh height.

The first morning we went out together the wind had swung round from the north and a cold blast punctuated by horizontal rain greeted us as we donned several layers and waders. Bjarni Höskuldsson, our guide, picked us up from the lodge and we headed out. Bjarni drove to the top of the Laxardal beats, and we stepped out into the elements armed with 5# rods and floating lines. The air temperature was 8 degrees centigrade, but as we followed Bjarni he led us through the ancient lava flows to “Hólmakvísl”. T here was an island in the river offering some protection from the strong gusts. The rig for this stretch was New Zealand style, a large boyant dry fly such as an ether foam hopper with a stretch of nylon tied directly to the hook shank with a small weighted nymph suspended below. We had asked Bjarni to fish with us, and he started in below us in the deeper current. After a little while of working up the river there was a yell from behind and Bjarni was into a fish that tore off downstream heading for the white water. As his rod bucked up and down he made his way towards the shore. Will and I continued fishing and after about five minutes Bjarni was still playing the fish so I thought I had better offer some assistance.
As I tromped down the bank it quickly became obvious that this was a large trout that was giving him a very hard time and as I grabbed the net and moved below into the current I caught site of the brown golden flank as it finned across the current. What a slab! I moved up behind and slowly brought the paddle net up and under and we all took an inhale of breath. The fish when measured was 64 cm and approximately 6 ½ lbs. He then explained that it had hit the bottom nymph tumbling in the current before hammering for the fast water in an effort to escape. Several times he had thought he would lose it but had managed to turn its head at the last minute. What a beast! We carried on and as I worked my way up another seam in the current I hear a squeak of surprise from Will to my left and he was into a fish. He was laughing hysterically as this fish tore line of the reel in a wide arc and headed downstream. It transpired that he had cast in front of him and after he had finished retrieving the line as it drifted towards him and was raising the rod a large trout had emerged from the depths and jumped at him as it chased the nymph nearly giving him a heart attack! After an intense battle this fish was skilfully netted by Bjarni and was again over 60 cm and just over 5 ½ lbs.

We moved downstream to a small inlet called “Nestá”, also protected from the wind by the high bank above. The current swung from the upper edge and across the middle of the inlet, a small stream of foam jogging down stream and looked extremely promising. I cast upstream and allowed the bob fly to move down the current. After about the third run down and just below the riffle the hopper disappeared and I struck. My hand was immediately met with solid resistance and the tip of the rod began to dance. The angry brown trout charged out into the main current, ripping line off as it went and putting a savage bend in the Hardy Zenith 5#. I can not believe how hard these fish fight! They are like some prehistoric toothy brown trout with an axe to grind. After nearly putting me into my backing and a couple of close calls I pulled his head up for two seconds and Bjarni slipped the net under his flank. A stunning cock fish of 58cm and about 4 ½ lbs. Almost immediately I then hit another on the outside of the current but it released me. I saw a massive side of gold in the water before everything went slack again. Honour was restored and we headed for the warmth of the lodge and some lunch.

After a cracking lunch of roast chicken and a small siesta it was back to the wader rooms to get kitted up. In the wader room is an incredible wader dryer taken out of one of the arctic fishing boats with arms that blow hot air up the legs. Having warm and toasty waders is a big plus before jumping into Bjarni’s car and trundling off down the track. We started at the same small inlet at “Nestá” we finished on to remain out of the wind. Will hopped in first and after half a dozen casts a fish smashed the fly as it had drawn level with him, another cracker of 59 cm and again 4 ½ lbs. In this instance the fish seemed to be induced by the cream and black Davy Wooten Woven Nymph escaping to be recast. One of the other fishermen in the lodge had shown us some large red sedge larvae he had collected from the river and had in a bowl next to the fly tying bench, the Davy Wooten woven nymph a dead ringer for the pupae. I must again state how rubbish the weather was and we were layered up to the eyeballs in fleece. There is no way I would be fishing in the UK in conditions like this and it was deeply satisfying to still be catching large fish. We fished a couple more pools and I managed one more fish almost an identical size, and by this stage we were feeling pretty cold and headed back to the lodge for a beer and a sauna to warm up.
The next morning I awoke at half past five to hear…. nothing…. The rain and wind had disappeared, the river outside was flat calm mirroring the hills surrounding it. I began to get VERY excited… I could not believe the change in conditions from one day to another and I immediately began to admin my kit. When breakfast came around Will and I were hopping up and down and in waders ready to go by 0830. Bjarni too was excited and we drove over the bridge and round to the other side of the river opposite the lodge. We picked our way through the old larva field until we came to the banks of “Ullarnef” pool and in the bay just above some fish were rising, quietly dimplying in the morning light. They appeared to be sipping small black midges and were barely breaking the surface. Bjarni and Will crept up and will began flicking a line out like and angry cat swishing its tail. I slipped into the river below and waded up to my chest before coming out on a black sandbar above. A fish rose just above me on the edge of the main current and I put the small black Klinkhammer over him again and again. He just came up intermittently, on some occasions nearly on top of the 5 lbs leader. Having cycled through a few other patterns I finally opted for a small size 14 Fulling Mill Pearly Spider. The fly went up, and as it came in line with the fish the leader stopped and I struck.
The angry brownie cart-wheeled out of the water before tearing away and almost immediately had me into my backing. Again, I was just staggered as to their power as the Zenith 5# started its merry jig as the line streaked out of the rings. I had to tuck the rod butt up against my hip and start leaning into it, reminiscent of bonefish…. but this was a trout! Bjarni sauntered over with the net and asked what all the noise was about… He came up behind it and slotted it carefully into his large paddle net. Another 4 ½ lbs football complete with lovely butter colour stomach and a spade tail. We moved higher up the West bank though “Ystipartur” and then up to “Djúpidráttur”. There were fish rising everywhere, sometimes sporadically and sometimes consistently and I could not believe the difference from the previous days. Will and I both landed a few more fish, and again the spider for me proved successful.
Lunch in the lodge looked out across the river and all we could see were rings of rises right across the wide part of the river. It was an extraordinary thing to witness, especially as we could see some of these huge fish rising 200 yards away. I was watching the clock click down to 1600 when we could get back out there. No siesta today, and Will and I charged out like a pair of teenagers straight down onto the water below the lodge. We cast at numerous large fish along the bank before venturing into the river and wading out. This was the nearest thing to bonefishing I have done with waders on. Will and I waded up the centre of Birningsstaðaflói, line abreast casting at rises as we went. Bjarni joined us after a little while as he had moved the car higher up the pool before walking back. Will caught two smaller fish of about 3 lbs in quick succession on a small green CDC emerger. I also caught a couple of fishing of a similar size in quick succession on a size 16 pheasant tail Klinkhammer.
We switched sides in the same way would circle each other on the salt flats before I found a large fish head and tailing in the boil of a rock. I cast the small Klinkhammer over the rise again and again, and Bjarni explained that it was just a question of persistence. We suddenly heard an exclamation as Will hooked up. There were a few convulsions in the surface before this creature powered off across the river towards the west bank. I suppose due to the nature of the river these large fish will always take off like a bonefish as they can’t sound on you and therefore just run. He was down to his backing in short order and began wading fast across the current in hot pursuit. In the mean time the large fish I was casting at continued rising as if the commotion that had started a mere 20 ft away was nothing to bother about. Bjarni explained this was perfectly normal and even if a fish was taken out of a wolf pack of feeding fish the others would carry on regardless. With no natural predators up here apart from the odd bird they have little to fear. After five minutes of consistent casting we looked across to see Will now struggling to land his fish. Bjarni took pity and waded over to give him a hand. The large cock fish ticked the scale at 5 lbs and 59 cm.
While observing the action from afar the fish I had been concentrating on suddenly decided mine was the right fly and came up to sip it off the surface. I set the hook and now it was my turn to chase a bundle of golden fury across the pool. I was beginning to get blasé about these large fish, even though I had more fish of a lager size in two days than ever I would find on my home waters in Hampshire. The evening progressed and we caught a few more, lost a few more, and never having waded more that 500 yards from the lodge.  Incredible. The last fish of the evening I was trying to catch had nestled amidst the larval boulders towards the head of the pool and came up consistently only two rod length from me. Every time it broke the surface I could see the whole mouth, eye, and then a couple of seconds later the tail would roll back down again. I estimated the fish at approximately 8 lbs judging by the breadth of the body which I could clearly see was between 10 – 15 cm across. It took a small F Fly on a 16 hook which just slid out of its mouth when I struck. Never even felt it… and then it carried on rising. At this point I waved it good bye, sated from all the action and ready to head home.
The Raudholar lodge is comfortable with typically Scandinavian rooms, each with two beds. The food was great, nothing fancy and plenty of it. The staff was kind and efficient and the guide team outstanding. It is an extremely functional lodge for serious fishermen. I have returned a little shell shocked.. again. The fishery is so huge with such a density of fish that I think there is no other brown trout fishery like it. In two and a half days Will and I had 22 fish between us, the smallest at 2 ½ lbs and the largest at 6 ½ lbs with numerous fish between 4 – 5 lbs. The Laxardalur valley has captured my heart and I will be returning next year for a re match with those prehistoric trout. Many of these fish have teeth that will cut 5 lbs leader, and they have been seen to hit ducklings off the surface. Yet these same brutal monsters will happily sip a tiny emerging midge off the surface like a 6 inch fingerling. You never know what you are going to hit. It is potentially one of the most exciting trout fisheries in the world, and for those that say that trout don’t fight, wait until you hook into one of these!

If fly fishing for tarpon is your thing then Cayo Santa Maria has tarpon, no, TARPON! Our guide Samuel met us down at the marina, how nice to have a guide with perfect English, skill and an entertaining nature that is so often lacking in other fisheries. We put our rods together and headed out of the tiny immaculate marina, it was 0615 and the sun was pushing over the horizon orange and hot. Not a breath of wind and a sea flat enough to play snooker. Near the horizon the Frigates and Terns were diving on a white foam of sardinas and Tarpon, looking right and left there were three schools of fish all with birdie aerial displays aloft, this was going to be “ fun, fun, fun till my daddy takes my T bird away.” There I’m excited already!

Samuel cuts the skiff and sits on the bow with a paddle and we quietly edge towards the tarpon enjoying a “fresh sardinas breakfast”, there must be a hundred fish, says Samuel, only small ones, he says, just 60 pounders. I look at Graham (Stirling Silver Moss, on account of his Sir Stirling Moss looks).  “We are going to need a bigger skiff”, I am thinking! First cast and it’s a 60 pounder that leaves the water like a Cuban missile (we won’t go there) on a flat sea the splash of re entry shatters the excited bird screeches and 100 mtrs of fly line is gone. Five times this silver ingot leaps for freedom, half an hour later and I find out why you should not pack your 12wts in your bag out of their storage tubes to save weight. “Craaaaackk and I have a 6 piece Sage and am hanging on to the handle and reel with both hands.

Lifetime guarantee? I don’t think I will live that long but the Tarpon looks at me from 10 mtrs as if to say, sorry, woops and ok I’ll come in now. Samuel boats the brute and says, “this is the only place on earth where even these small ones are big!” I have to agree, this is a fat firm pristine conditioned fish the likes I have never seen. Well these sort of experiences continued all week on the spare rod, lots hooked, 29 jumped and 15 boated, 40 to 100lb of the best condition tarpon you will ever find!

 
Well done Aardvark McLeod, well done! Another Mojito Stirling! With thanks to Samuel (H) our guide.

I kept being reassured that there had been a ton of snow in Iceland last winter and that the headwaters of the Langá were well topped up with a bountiful supply of water. I was somewhat alarmed when an old Iceland hand told me he wasn’t going on his annual pilgrimage up to the land of Ice and Fire as there was not likely to be any water this year and it was going to be the same low levels as the last two seasons. Well I am not entirely sure what my acquaintance had been smoking but we arrived at the lodge to find the water level to be nigh on perfect.

The previous fortnight had seen cool weather on the west coast and it was generally deemed that most things were at least a fortnight behind normal. Certainly many spring flowers were still in bloom whereas last year they were well over when we arrived. A ptarmigan on the road side with a brood of a dozen bumble bees was another indicator of how late things were. The main run of fish was also tardy but as our week progressed the weather warmed and the river system began to fill with sea liced bars of silver. The highest tide of the summer took place on the Sunday of our stay and the catches steadily increased as the week progressed.

Last season’s warm water temperatures (almost 20C in the shallows) and low water levels and an abundance of fish (a run estimated 40% higher than average) gave us loads of sport. However in the cooler water of this July it was generally agreed that the fish scrapped a lot harder than our previous visits in 2009 and 2010. Interestingly the water temperature early in the week was 9C in Pool 93 (top of the system) and 14C in the lowest pools. A number of larger fish were also caught – at least three around the ten pound mark and several of around six or seven pounds  all of which gave great account of themselves on light tackle.

The average catch for a full rod was just under 20 fish (14 in 2009/10) and most fishermen used a rod of 9’ – 10’6” for a #8 - however some of us had success on Guide Klaus Frimor’s 9’ Guideline for a #5 which proved feisty stuff. Small flies (sizes 14, 16 and 18), small tubes and hitches and micro cones did the business although making the fish stay attached on such small hooks proved testing! Others had success on larger flies and tubes fished (on the whole) conventionally. In summary - a week of plenty of action with guests seeing the river fishing almost at its very best.

The Lodge was as comfortable as ever and Mjöll and her team looked after us fantastically well. This year’s young chef did a superb job and had a lot to live up to after 2010’s ludicrously high standard of cuisine – he surpassed all expectations and it sounds as if he will become a permanent fixture. We will return!